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Mercury,
Thursday May 8 2008
Quality
wins out as this mango tree stands root and branch above
the rest
Your
Time regularly sends a mystery diner to a local restaurant
– this week it’s Mango Tree, in Stonanall.
The
Mango Tree sits in sublime contrast to its truck dealership
and petrol station neighbours, a beautiful modest dining
experience. Upon our arrival a gracious and attentive
employee swiftly escorted us to our seat, via the tasteful
splendour of the entrance area. Gorgeously decorated
and unclutted the dining area boasts a conservatory
extension that provides an airy and open feel. Two poppadoms
with dips were instantly ushered onto our table, as
a thoroughly engaging waiter took our drink order. My
Coca-Cola arrived in an original glass bottle, a little
touch but enough to suggest the Mango Tree cares about
every minor detail. Within five minutes of ordering
our starters were whisked onto our laps. I opted for
crab cakes; two tangerine-sized breadcrumb balls of
aromatic spiced delight, containing enough spice to
smoulder the tongue but a plum chutney provided the
perfect cooling accompaniment. My dining partner selected
the seekh gilafi kebab, minced lamb rolled in spices
and peppers provided a hearty starter, with the mint
dip another effective plate partner. From the clearing
of our plates to the arrival of the main course, a perfect
wait of around 20 minutes ensured before our main course
arrived. Director Rajinder Ram spent time at each table
with light but welcome chit-chat, ensuring our blissful
evening was as comfortable as possible. The Mango Tree’s
menu is not endless and extensive, but instead focuses
on quality, divided into southern coastal cuisine, south
Indian dishes, tandoori selection, lamb, chicken biryani
and an extensive vegetarian selection. Each dish sounds
as appetising as the next, with a useful spice indicator
for the diner. My murgh methi malai with saffron rice
arrived in piping hot pottery bowls; this unfortunately
provided a first black mark against Mango Tree.
In my experience of curry dining, waiters ask if you
wish for the meal to be served onto your plate –
instead we used the lap cloths as temporary oven gloves
to serve our meals.
A second black mark was the driving hail and rain thudding
into the plastic roof overhead, drowning out the restaurant’s
music system and evoking memories of sleepless childhood
caravan holidays in Wales.
My dish was a triumph as the juicy chicken and soft
rice was brought to life with a perfectly spiced sauce
– enough to excite the tongue but not ignite.
Many lower quality curry houses opt for ‘quantity
not quality’, leaving the diner bloated –
the Mango Tree has found a supremely happy medium between
the two. My dining partner selected the murgh makhanwalla
with plain rice and commented on the succulent chicken
and depth of spice, which ensured it, would be consumed
at a leisurely, respectful pace. Having never indulged
in desserts at an Indian restaurant, I plumped for the
favourite Indian dessert of gulaab jamun with vanilla
ice cream.
Two golf ball sized sweet dumplings soaked in syrup
served warm in a quaint dish with vanilla ice cream,
a perfectly sweet hot and cold combination that wrapped
up a triumph of a meal.
My dining partner opted for the chocolate truffle ice
cream desert, a chocolate ice cream cove filled with
a lighter cream centre finished with a dusting of cocoa
– another fine crescendo.
The bill worked out at less than £25 each for
our three-course feast plus accompaniments (excluding
drinks).
Ample car parking and perfect disabled access ensure
Mango Tree is accessible to all.
In brief the Mango Tree is a beautiful dining experience
and its attention to detail is refreshing, fairly priced
food and attentive staff leave you pondering just how
soon it will be before your return.
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